"Real China"

What is real and what is fake? This is a question that every visitor asks when they first come to China. Are the watches real? (no) Are the Northface jackets real? (no) Is the shoe leather real? (probably not) Is the Jade real? (probably not) The movies? (definitely bootlegged) The food? (most cooks don’t have a license.) The mixed drinks? (You ever tasted rubbing alcohol?)

Most name brand and copyrighted merchandise is ripped off here, but what about the history and culture, the people, and the national spirit – surely these are more representative of what is “real” in this country. Well, my friend’s chauffer complains that professional beggars make more money than he does (and have better cell phones.) The wealthy drive brand new (always black) Mercedes, Mazzarattis, and Beamers and the not so rich drive hand-me-down bikes which look 100 years old. Official policy levies fines against public spitting, but I still see small children crapping on the sidewalks. Official policy also bans prostitution, but scores can be found outside our hotel (and inside) on any given day. The weather is awful, except when the government shuts down its factories and regulates traffic to reduce pollution when important foreign dignitaries come to visit (best weather I have seen so far was during the big Sino-Africa economic conference here in Beijing.) Flashy, modern commercial buildings, apartments, and restaurants line the main streets of Beijing, but one has to wonder how many years these hastily constructed structures will last. Only a little way off of the beaten path, modernity gives way to much dingier streets with ancient houses crowded together, or, becoming more and more common, tall and efficient economy housing complexes.

So what is “Real” China? Is it the bustling modern city or the traditional neighborhoods? The politics, the economy, or the traditional culture? My answer is: I don’t know. Reality in China for the Chinese people cannot be defined in terms of wealth, because there are many thousands of wealthy who have very much, but countless millions who have almost nothing of material value, and these classes experience two completely different worlds. Likewise, China cannot be defined simply in terms of culture because there are so many people groups here with such radically different histories and traditional values. China does not even have a unifying language (though this is changing.) The common man in Beijing cannot communicate with the common man in Shanghai, or Hong Kong, or Xian, or Lhasa, or anyone outside of the Northeastern provinces. The political system cannot even show us what “Real” China is, because an un-representative government does not necessarily reflect the desires and needs of the majority of Chinese.

What is “Real” China? It’s funny; I found out that some of my Chinese friends are also wondering the same thing! To answer the question, I dunno, and I guess the Chinese don’t either. Only time will tell what role this still relatively newly independent nation, and even newer economic giant will play on the world stage, and also which roles its people will play and what their values will become.

Beijing itself reminds me of an impatient adolescent child. The city is growing and modernizing very quickly, but in many ways its people have not all quite caught up, and there are still quite a few rough spots: this adolescent has acne, its voice cracks sometimes, and it even smells funny. But acting as a witness to this growth is fascinating, and I am glad to be here to see Beijing’s awkward stage as it prepares for summer ’08.